ABUTILON: CHINESE LANTERNS
ANTHURIUM
ORIGINS: Australian Abutilon x Hybrids stem from the South American Abutilon plant.
PLANTING LOCATION: Abutilon is not too fussy about its planting location. I have planted mine in both full sun and part shade locations with much success. Planting in soil that remains moist is important.
PROBLEMS: The shrub itself can be a little scraggly looking so i've planted mine near some hibiscus - a closely related species - to let the two plants grow into eachother for dotted colour and denser planting. Abutilon can grow to 3m so consider an open planting location.
FLOWERING: Full bloom is meant to be from September to December, however, my Abutilon have continued to flower throughout Autumn and early Winter. Plants can be purchased in red, yellow, pink or orange flowers. The pretty bell-shaped flowers dangle - like lanterns - from branches with dark green maple shaped leaves.
ORIGINS: This equadorian beauty is at home in humid tropical climates and moist soil. In an ideal climate, this plant can be epiphytic – growing on trees but not draining nutrients from the tree.
PLANTING LOCATION: Anthurium are usually sold in the indoor plant section and garden tags specify a moist, humid, indoor location. I took a gamble and planted it outdoors under a tree.
I’ve had flowering success by planting in a bright situation with some shade or dappled sun for most of the day (no direct sun in summer), as well as, some protection from wind.
PROBLEMS: You have to wait all summer to see these flowers in bloom!
FLOWERS: My Anthurium flower from about march till july every year in soil that dry enough for my other tropical plants to refuse to flower in. I fertilise with seaweed fertiliser in late summer or when it starts to flower and that seems to be enough for a long lasting bloom with flowers the size of coffee mugs.
CLIVIA
This south african plant is so versatile and easy to grow it’s almost over-used to the point of weedy dislike.
PLANTING LOCATION: My clivia grow in half sun both in clay and dry soil. I leave watering to natural rainfall and seldom fertilise. It seems to thrive when left to its own devices.
PROBLEMS: Its roots are quite superficial so a lot soil depth is not required but it does have an extensive root system. To contain root spread into delicate plant areas, I occassionally chop lightly into surrounding soil with a mattock (when not in flower).
FLOWERS: My clivia flower profusely in spring and again in autumn, and when the dark strappy leaves turn into a sea of orange, my heart melts. As such a beautiful, reliable and resilient perennial I can overcome it’s weedy reputation.
BROMELIADS
ORIGINS: These American natives originate from the tropical climates of the Amazon growing high up in the tree tops or nearer the ground; a look which can easily be re-created in Australian gardens by growing Bromeliads.
PLANTING LOCATION: A bright shady location or a sunny spot will both suit the Bromeliad provided it's central spout is filled with water, or is able to collect rainfall naturally, on a regular basis. Bromeliads do not require alot of, if any, soil to grow. Mine are planted in a gap between some rocks which i filled with a mix of soil, leaves, bark, pebbles - basically anything organic to make the soil course - in which they have flowered and multiplied readily.
You can also grow Bromeliads on tree beanches by tying the Bromeliad to a tree and wrapping some peat around the base to retain moisture. I have found that water intake needs to be increased to successfully grow them on trees but in high humidity climates perhaps this look is more easily achieved.
PROBLEMS: Water in the funnel can begin to smell putrid if it remains stagnant during hot summers. Mosquitos can apparently breed in some large funnelled bromeliads that hold alot of water, however, it is safe to drop anti-mosquito pellets into Bromeliads in such cases. I like to spray mine lightly and regularly to mist the leaves and increase humidity and refresh the water funnel. Fertilising is not necessary, however, a light mix of a seaweed based fertiliser can be used sparingly.
FLOWERS: Some Bromeliads are flowering varieties and some are not, however, the foliage of these plants comes in such a huge range of bright and unusual colours, or patterns, that the plant alone can be as beautiful as the flower. For example, my images show three of my bromeliads that all look and flower differently: a lime green leaf in summer that turns into a hot-pink flush in winter but has no flower, a red and green spotted leaf year-round that also does not flower, and a 'silver-vase' variety that flowers a massive pink spiky flower that has lasted for over 6 months!
The size of these plants varies greatly with some having greater spread than height; or vice versa. Check and follow labels however if your Bromeliad beings to spread too wide, side shoots can be easily cut off at the base and replanted.
Bromeliads are prolific growers that make big statements in the garden with minimal required effort!
